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| Processing stages
in shoe production: |
The
Last:
- measurements (length, circumference,
waist circumference, instep circumference, collar)
- last construction (a mould is made
using a standard wooden last, according to the required
measurements) |
The
Vamp:
- paper pattern (a paper pattern is cut
out according to the measurements of the last; this pattern
is used to cut out the leather)
- cutting out the leather
- joining (uniting the various pieces
of the vamp and sewing them together and to the lining)
- pre-assembly (temporary assembly of
the shoe on the last using small nails)
The Bottom:
It consists of sole, insole, middle (thin layer of
leather or cork between the sole and insole), welt, shank
board, top lift and heel. |
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Assembly
Operations:
- assembly (settling of the vamp on the
last; reinforcements are inserted between the lining and
the vamp)
- soling (final removal of the vamp,
insertion of the shank board between the heel and the
sole, smoothing of the toe where the shank board is attached)
- sewing the welt (strip of soft leather
sown to the seams to make them waterproof)
- sole application (India rubber adhesive
is spread over the outer edge to which the sole is then
attached)
- stacked heel construction (consisting
of various layers of hide which are consecutively attached
to the sole; the heel is moulded to obtain the desired
shape)
Finishing Operations:
- bottom finish (the bottom is dyed with
aniline colours, allowed to dry for about one hour, then
it is smoothed and polished)
- removal (after ten days the shoe can
be removed from the wooden last)
- polishing (manual cleaning and polishing
of the vamp and bottom: these are the final operations) |
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